Do I need a torque screwdriver set?

I've just started my training and am interested in what tools are essential when first starting out. Is the torque screwdriver regarded as one of the useful tools in the toolbag? Thanks

No probably not.I had one for 3 years and used it twice, then sold it. For some specialist applications then torque tools are required but for the majority of the work I do I'm comfortable I've tightened stuff correctly with a normal screwdriver

If you're starting to gather up tools, I wouldn't be too concerned about a torque screwdriver just yet.

Pliers, shears, side cutters, screwdrivers would be the basics to start with, then increase that range of hand tools depending on what sort of work you find yourself doing. Maybe add a pair of 8" grips to the list of essential tools - I hate them, but have to conceed they cover a lot of uses.

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Matthewd29 said:

No probably not.I had one for 3 years and used it twice, then sold it. For some specialist applications then torque tools are required but for the majority of the work I do I'm comfortable I've tightened stuff correctly with a normal screwdriver

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That's good to know. There seem to be so many tools available - of varying specialisation - that I only want to look at those that are necessary. A cable stripper is something that I did recently purchase.

nicebutdim said:

If you're starting to gather up tools, I wouldn't be too concerned about a torque screwdriver just yet.

Pliers, shears, side cutters, screwdrivers would be the basics to start with, then increase that range of hand tools depending on what sort of work you find yourself doing. Maybe add a pair of 8" grips to the list of essential tools - I hate them, but have to conceed they cover a lot of uses.

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Thanks, now that's a very reasonable list!

The only thing where a torque driver would need to be used is a consumer unit, where there is a Nm value stated for tightening terminals.
If your just starting out, you won’t be doing many of them.

It is argued that too tight can be as bad as too loose, but as you progress, you’ll get a sixth sense with a manual driver whether it’s too tight or loose….

But then, your “tight enough” may be 2Nm, or 3Nm where the stated is 2.5.

I'd have a a couple of "PlusMinus" screwdrivers for consumer units much higher up the list than a torque one.

littlespark said:

The only thing where a torque driver would need to be used is a consumer unit, where there is a Nm value stated for tightening terminals.
If your just starting out, you won’t be doing many of them.

It is argued that too tight can be as bad as too loose, but as you progress, you’ll get a sixth sense with a manual driver whether it’s too tight or loose….

But then, your “tight enough” may be 2Nm, or 3Nm where the stated is 2.5.

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That's useful to know. I should have tightened a few terminals by the time my training takes me to consumer units.

timhoward said:

I'd have a a couple of "PlusMinus" screwdrivers for consumer units much higher up the list than a torque one.

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I'm glad that having a torque is not obligatory, and so I'll focus on having a couple of plus minus - I've heard it before and it makes sense now.

Steady Steve said:

I'm glad that having a torque is not obligatory, and so I'll focus on having a couple of plus minus - I've heard it before and it makes sense now.

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might have a couple of +/- spare. if i can find them you can have them cheap. I'm just outsideof Northwich, so easy pick upif I have them.

You might not need a torque screwdriver for day to day use, but I'd suggest you need one in your toolbox once you are completing jobs like consumer unit changes. So that you have the means to tighten terminals to manufacturer's specifications, even if you think you can do it accurately enough without.

Years ago, my college tutor told us of a court case, where an electrican was asked about the content of his toolbox, and it didn't include a torque screwdriver. He was then asked how me managed to tighten the terminals to the correct values. He had no defence. Don't recall the rest of the details (I think something caught fire).

The only +/- ones I have are bits for my torque screwdriver!

But they do make a difference as often the screw heads are easy to damage at higher torques, even if to begin with you are just given the job of dismantling stuff so unscrewing a tight fastener.

For many years the skill of sensibly tightening terminals was something that was learned as an apprentice, etc, so you could reliably make connections that would not undo with vibration or thermal cycling, as well as not leading to damage to the wire and/or cable clamp itself. But with the number of botched installations presenting a fire risk the industry has moved towards the use of torque tools to try and reduce dependency on such skill and to help get better control over results.

Also a torque set is quite a handy way to get a feel for what is correct for 2Nm, etc, but you can probably borrow one for such a trial.

That is much the same as garages have been for last 50+ years, most bolts/nuts are done by hand, but critical ones like cylinder head, water pump, driveshaft, etc, finished with a torque wrench.

Another factor is stuff being poorly done and often damaged on assembly is monkeys using an impact wrench. Except for some very specific tools, NEVER use a power tool on electrical terminals! Most impact drivers will, even at the lowest setting, hammer the faster home to a much higher torque that most can cope with. Typically the only ones likely to survive are going to be M8 or larger studs, etc. A moment's carelessness with my own impact driver (Milwaukee M18FID2) resulted in me shearing a M6 roofing screw when assembling cable try, so I am not joking!

Having said that, my impact driver is a most excellent tool to have (though not the cheapest) for drilling with the hex-shank bits, using the 20mm - 32mm hole saws for glands, etc, and for mechanical assembly/disassembly on larger wood screws or bolts as it really gets the job done quickly.

TL;DR Concentrate on basic hand tools first (as @nicebutdim said), then look at some useful power tools for mechanical work and as you get to assembly CU or other stuff with high current terminals then look at a torque set.

SJD said:

You might not need a torque screwdriver for day to day use, but I'd suggest you need one in your toolbox once you are completing jobs like consumer unit changes. So that you have the means to tighten terminals to manufacturer's specifications, even if you think you can do it accurately enough without.

Years ago, my college tutor told us of a court case, where an electrician was asked about the content of his toolbox, and it didn't include a torque screwdriver. He was then asked how me managed to tighten the terminals to the correct values. He had no defence. Don't recall the rest of the details (I think something caught fire).

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Very good point!

I really shouldn't admit this...but for several years I had something rather like this, picked up for about a tenner. Intended for bicycle use.
Obviously NOT insulated and lethal if not concentrating, but it indicated 2-10nm and got me by. (Some screws are less than 2nm on some consumer units, especially on earth and neutral bars.)



When I mislaid about 5 years ago I finally bought a proper Armeg set.

There is a modern bike tool that does 1-8nm and costs £39 but that is getting too close to the Toolstation £64 Draper 1-5nm VDE offering to be worth scrimping on.
So don't do what I did!

pc1966 said:

Another factor is stuff being poorly done and often damaged on assembly is monkeys using an impact wrench. Except for some very specific tools, NEVER use a power tool on electrical terminals! Most impact drivers will, even at the lowest setting, hammer the faster home to a much higher torque that most can cope with. Typically the only ones likely to survive are going to be M8 or larger studs, etc. A moment's carelessness with my own impact driver (Milwaukee M18FID2) resulted in me shearing a M6 roofing screw when assembling cable try, so I am not joking!

Having said that, my impact driver is a most excellent tool to have (though not the cheapest) for drilling with the hex-shank bits, using the 20mm - 32mm hole saws for glands, etc, and for mechanical assembly/disassembly on larger wood screws or bolts as it really gets the job done quickly.

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I have an impact WRENCH (1/2") that I use constantly for deep socket 15/17/19mm work in generator busbar chambers, turns a 2m job into a 1s one - however - it's a Makita one with clever adjustable modes, so it's set so that as soon as it starts to actually impact it shuts off automatically so that you have more control over the final few 1/4 turns. Likewise it senses when the nut is loose and stops spinning so that you don't end up with it flying off. But I can't think that I've ever used a motorised tool on a standard terminal screw, or fixing plate, EVER in my now 34 years of sparkying. As the old saying goes.... "It's only fun until someone (or thing!) gets hurt"