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Ner123ak

Hi
We have just spent quite a lot on having a new kitchen in another part of our house. This was a complete installation including new electrics plumbing etc.
It us now apparently finished and quite frankly the electrics scare me
The power cables are running in and out of the radiator pipes everywhere for a start. When I asked I was told it's ok it's heat protected cable.
Couple of pictures below I have many more from all over.
The hob and oven are just on a 13 amp plug and that don't seem right to me as well. The whole work is quite shocking but I will stick to electricals [ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare
Please could someone help me as I don't know what I should do
thnx v much for any advice
k
 
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmareAnd here's the latest pics after the trunking. Think it gets worse as it goes into loft will snap there later.
Sorry they have loaded strange.
The first one is top second is bottom
third is the socket.
This is the trunked repairs to the earlier pictures
thnx yet again for all the input it has helped us a lot.
 
Here's a piece of an email they sent me

The hob on 13 amp plug tops are okay, it comes as the recommended installation from the manufacturer. So no worries there.
I understand your concerns about the Cables along the radiator pipes, I raised this myself with another electrician once upon a time, but don’t worry its fine. The cable nowadays is all shielded and heat proofed.
We hand over certification for all his electrical work once paid, so this should will help put your mind at ease.


How come you are not in possession of all the manufacturers paperwork/manual relating to the hob and oven etc??
As previously stated above, T&E is not shielded, and has a 70'C standard rating, so certainly not classed as a heat proof cable. Such cables are normally rated over 90'C and won't be PVC, rather it'll be of a silicone based rubber construction....
 
Here's a piece of an email they sent me

The hob on 13 amp plug tops are okay, it comes as the recommended installation from the manufacturer. So no worries there.
I understand your concerns about the Cables along the radiator pipes, I raised this myself with another electrician once upon a time, but don’t worry its fine. The cable nowadays is all shielded and heat proofed.
We hand over certification for all his electrical work once paid, so this should will help put your mind at ease.

Ignoring the total BS proceeding this sentence I hi-lighted... send a reply Email making them aware that the job is not complete until you have received the cert's for his work, and express you have been informed that they cannot be held back until payment.... the final payment will not be payed until cert's have been received and your happy with all issues raised.
 
This is what the manufactures instructions of your hob state;


The hob must be installed by a competent electrician, using a suitable double pole control unit, with 3mm minimum contact separation at all poles.

Fuse Protection 23 A min


How can this company argue against these instructions, it's clear as day what should be done.
 
You also now need to decide how far you are prepared to take things??

Exactly how much work has this so-called electrician actually undertaken for you?? Seems he's not to keen on filling holes etc, either. I hope he hasn't fleeced you on price too, just to add insult to injury!! lol!!
 
Never mind he won't hand over the certificates unless you've paid in full, judging by this persons work I'd say his testing wouldn't be all that good either.
Just because he's written out a certificate there's no guarantee that is an accurate representation of the installation he's done.
You'd be better off using the money to get a decent spark to come and inspect/test the lash up he's inflicted on you.
Ultimately it's you and your loved ones safety that's at stake here.
 
Just a small thing that is also bothering us. They also fitted a new shower a Mira jump and although it seems to work. There is a large green light at the top on all the time. He has wired the shower into the cooker part of the consumer box.
Isvthis ok
thnx

Sounds to me that the "old" cooker circuit is now the "shower" and the cooker and hob are on the socket circuit.

I think you need to get a formal 2nd opinion, before you pay the balance.

EDIT: Can the OP post a picture of the fuseboard?
 

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