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Ner123ak

Hi
We have just spent quite a lot on having a new kitchen in another part of our house. This was a complete installation including new electrics plumbing etc.
It us now apparently finished and quite frankly the electrics scare me
The power cables are running in and out of the radiator pipes everywhere for a start. When I asked I was told it's ok it's heat protected cable.
Couple of pictures below I have many more from all over.
The hob and oven are just on a 13 amp plug and that don't seem right to me as well. The whole work is quite shocking but I will stick to electricals [ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare
Please could someone help me as I don't know what I should do
thnx v much for any advice
k
 
Hi ....the new guys have been land have just gone to get switches. So quickly posting They are putting a switch on the hob and shower. Apparently the oven doesn't need one and go on a plug. Cabling checked and ok to have by pipes as they say it is heat protected and pipes can not get hot enough to do damage.
Happier as it seems a easy solution. If a little apprehensive. Why the first guy didn't just do it is beyond me and save all this.
 
Hi ....the new guys have been land have just gone to get switches. So quickly posting They are putting a switch on the hob and shower. Apparently the oven doesn't need one and go on a plug. Cabling checked and ok to have by pipes as they say it is heat protected and pipes can not get hot enough to do damage.
Happier as it seems a easy solution. If a little apprehensive. Why the first guy didn't just do it is beyond me and save all this.

Because he's not an Electrician?!
It may well all comply in the end, but it's still a shoddy job.
I wouldn't be happy at all!
 
Lol, how any electrician will say that FTE is ok on hot pipes is beyond me. This is the second lot too.

There is something wrong with this thread.
Hi well they have finished they put the switches on and assured me the cabling is ok. These two guys did seem much better and at least had shirts with their company name on. But It was a weird atmosphere the main guy from the installers arrived. So maybe the new guys didn't want to slag off the other guy. But they were sort of saying well it's not dangerous like it is.
Happier.
I will put pics up in mo
thnx
 
Hi ....the new guys have been land have just gone to get switches. So quickly posting They are putting a switch on the hob and shower. Apparently the oven doesn't need one and go on a plug. Cabling checked and ok to have by pipes as they say it is heat protected and pipes can not get hot enough to do damage.
Happier as it seems a easy solution. If a little apprehensive. Why the first guy didn't just do it is beyond me and save all this.


Where are you sourcing your electricians from The big book of Numpties..... when cables are tested to ensure they will trip the circuit in a fault within a specific time then is is at ambient temp', if the cables are subject to external heat sources even for a small part of the length then the current carrying capacity is reduced and can mean a larger cable is required... the cable is rated to 70c but this is just an indication of how hot it can become before the sheath and insulation start to break down - this does not mean its ok to run it next to a hot pipe.

We have both Electrical and building regs to conform to and running cables touching hot pipes is a no no in the domestic realm - so sorry but you seem to attract numpties, I would show this Electrician these posts and suggest he goes back to college to re-educate himself and purchase a copy of the building regs and the Electrical regs.
 
View attachment 28477View attachment 28478Pics first one is shower switch it's in cupboard next to bathroom.
The second is hob n oven the hob to switch oven to socket
Please say it's ok now guys.
The shower switch will pass in the cupboard but to be honest looks rough, the cable entering the backbox is tight and not clipped either, cannot comment on the oven switch as I cant see how the socket is wired or if they have just linked off the socket... did they run a new wire? Is the wire to the hob switch a similar size to the wire that goes to the shower?

I would still after they say they have completed it, get a long running reputable local electrical firm in to just test their work it should just be a callout (1hour work). Its how its all wired that may be of concern but you won't have the knowledge or understanding to relay that to us
 
Those flexes have a extra tight bending radius,rough as dogs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

The shower unsupported cable exiting the switch is "extra" rough as dogs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

The cabling and trunking to the socket is "super" rough as dogs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

The work standard should be the dogs testicles
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare




but I regret to say

"Its Dog rough"there I got it right in the end
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare
 
Those flexes have a extra tight bending radius,rough as dogs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

The shower unsupported cable exiting the switch is "extra" rough as dogs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

The cabling and trunking to the socket is "super" rough as dogs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

The work standard should be the dogs testicles
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare






but I regret to say

"Its Dog rough"there I got it right in the end
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help new kitchen nightmare

Your real name isn't Keith Lard by any chance?....
 
I must admit it dose not look good,

If I read your earlier posts correctly the socket for the hob/oven are on the kitchen ring. They seem to have fitted a 20a double pole for the oven, if so they have made it worse as now it is not fused other than the circuit mcb.
The cooker isolator should not be located at the back of a cupboard.
Others have mentioned the standard of workmanship which is poor.

It might be interesting to ask him what rating factor he used for the high ambient temperature where the cables are in contact with heating pipes. I had a quick look and the table only goes up to 60 deg and that is 0.5

I too think you need to get it looked at by a reputable local electrician, you should not pay your electrician until he has given you a certificate.
Is your electrician registered for part p? you should ask. If he is then ask him for the notification number along with the certificate. If not ask him to confirm that he has informed the local authority building control of the work.
 
Where are you sourcing your electricians from The big book of Numpties..... when cables are tested to ensure they will trip the circuit in a fault within a specific time then is is at ambient temp', if the cables are subject to external heat sources even for a small part of the length then the current carrying capacity is reduced and can mean a larger cable is required... the cable is rated to 70c but this is just an indication of how hot it can become before the sheath and insulation start to break down - this does not mean its ok to run it next to a hot pipe.

We have both Electrical and building regs to conform to and running cables touching hot pipes is a no no in the domestic realm - so sorry but you seem to attract numpties, I would show this Electrician these posts and suggest he goes back to college to re-educate himself and purchase a copy of the building regs and the Electrical regs.

Just for a bit of daftness and because I'm bored, I've just measured the temperatures of a couple of heating pipes in my house using the approved clip-on thermometer and found they are running at 82 degrees Centigrade.

And I know from my commissioning testing that on a cold day when I crank it up it will hit 95 - Hope that helps!!
 

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